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TORTEL:
TYPICAL AREA.
1. - PRESENTATION.
Tortel, located in the area of the southern archipelagos
of the western Patagonia, in front of the "De
Penas" gulf, in the outlet of the mightiest river
of Chile, dismembered coast territory, of fiords
and estuaries, in middle of the influence of two
ice fields ice (north and south), with the biggest
reservations of fresh water of the world, it is
one of the most extensive and uninhabited communes
in Chile, with 21.347 Km2 and just by 507 inhabitants;
connected newly to the rest of the country by
the "southern highway." Its capital communal and
only formal populational location is CALETA TORTEL,
founded on May of 1955, the 28, town that owes
its history to the wooden exploitation of cypress
of the Guaitecas, from beginnings of the XX century,
activity that the first settlers children, maintain
until today. The Cypress and people of Tortel.
Tortel and their cypress forests have maintained
a narrow relationship in a little more than a
century of history. The principal economy of the
town is the extraction and sale of this noble
wood that it has also served as sustenance for
construction of its housings and of their more
than 7 Km. of gangplanks. It surprises the quantity
of "posts" of cypress accumulated in the sides
of the central pier of the creek, waiting for
shipment barge of Armada of Chile that are each
3 or 4 months to Tip Arenas where are used as
fences and other ends in the magellanics stays
. In this traditional productive cycle, it is
still possible to find woodier colonists that
go transporting for the "Baker" river big cypress
trunks like built rafts of the same wood. This
is the reason of why Caleta Tortel is an eminently
timber and not fishing creek, as many people believe.
2. - GENERAL ANTECEDENTS. LOCATION.
The commune of Tortel is in the XI Region among
the 73ª and 76ª of longitude west, and the 47ª
and 49ª of south latitude, in the Province Captain
Prat. Specifically it is located 470 Kms to the
S/W from Coyhaique city and 131 Kms from Cochrane.
Accessibility: To go to the Creek, first you should
travel by plane to Balmaceda airport, located
to 55 Km to the S.E from Coyhaique city, or in
ship to the Chacabuco port, located to 82 Km,
to the N.W of the same city. In the present, two
terrestrial transport companies exist, "Interlagos"
and "Don Carlos" that make the itinerary Coyhaique
- Cochrane in near 8 hrs by the route 7 south
(southern highway), going by beautiful tourist
attractive as Cerro Castillo, the lake General
Carrera, Puerto Bertrand and Cochrane. After to
stay a night in Cochrane, you should continue
next day heading for Tortel, by means of the transport
company "Acuario 13" or "Transport Mr. Ramón López",
in little more than 3 trip hrs, through a beautiful
sights of mountains and forests that skirt the
enormous Baker River. Air: Caleta Tortel has a
rubble hint of 600 meters long for 23 meters width
for the landing of light planes, located beside
the Baker River, to a side of the town. Tourist
can leasing flights charter and rates can be asked
in the 3 companies that offer this service in
Coyhaique city: "Don Carlos"; "Meyer" and "San
Rafael." Climate: Tortel has a climate temperate
rainy cold characterized by a high rains and standardize
(on the 2000 mm. a year), with an annual half
temperature that it fluctuates between 7ª and
9ª C., and for a thermal width, characteristic
of its maritime coasts. In winter period some
snowfalls of short duration, and some longer periods,
frosts are common. Natural environment. This same
climate allows the existence of a great biodiversity,
represented mainly always by evergreen forests
and a great variety of birds. One of the principal
species it is the Cypress of the Guaitecas in
the first place (pilgerodendron uviferum), continued
by the common Coigüe (nothofagus donbeyi), the
male Mañio of piercing leaves (podocarpus nubigena),
the Tepú (tepualia stipularis), the Luma (amomyrtus
luma) and the Cinnamon tree (drimys winteri).
In the birds, it is possible to observe the Martin
Fisherman (ceryle torquata), the Chucao (scelorchilus
rubecula rubecula), the Hued Hued of the South
(Pteroptochos tarnii), the cometocino of Southern
Gay (phrygilus gayi caniceps), and to the Condor
(vultur gryphus) in the top of the hill The Flag
and of the islands that are in front of the creek.
PROTECTED WILD AREAS OF THE STATE IN TORTEL: More
than 80% of the communal territory it corresponds
to protected wild areas of the state that are
the "Katalalixar" National Reserve, "Bernardo
O'Higgins" National Park and "Lagoon San Rafael"
National Park "Katalalixar" National Reserves:
sited on the W of Caleta Tortel. It means group
of islands in the language Kawaskar or Alacalufe;
first inhabitants of these costs of the Chilean
sea. It has a surface of 674.500 there is. "Lagoon
San Rafael" National Park: Declared world reserve
of the biosphere for the UNESCO, with 1.742.000
has, of extension, of those which 400.000 has,
they are millennial ice and lands on the limit
of vegetation It includes the totality of the
Ice Land North of 4.400 Km 2 of surface. "Bernardo
O'Higgins" National Park: It is the biggest National
Park in the country, with a surface of 3.525.901
has, of which 910.000 are located in the south
limit of the Region of Aysén. It understands a
great part of South Ice Land III. - TOURIST ATTRACTIVENESS
DE TORTEL. 1) Caleta Tortel: In Caleta Tortel,
the streets have been replacing by an ingenious
and complex net of gangplanks, stairways and cypress
bridges that communicate to their piers and housings
in more than seven kms. Given this singular characteristic,
the town was declared "National Monument" in the
category "Typical Area" in 2001 for the Chilean
state. Caleta Tortel like town was divided in
4 sectors or neighbourhoods: Sector "Rincón":
It concentrates the biggest population in the
creek and the newest public infrastructure in
the town: the medical office, the School Major
Luis Bravo Bravo and its modern Gym. It is here
where the southern highway arrives and where the
parking of the town is. It has Municipal Tourist
Information office. Sector " Base" or Centro:
Here it is located the Municipality and Port Captaincy
of the commune, also the public telephone, library
with internet, local radio Madipro, post office,
police station and civil registration. Next to
the weapons square of the town, is the tourist
information office in the organization "Southern
Patagonia." Sector "Playa Ancha": Here they are
television antennas and the square "Orompello",
place where it is possible obtain a privileged
sight of the sector and of its gangplanks. Sector
"Junquillo": It is the last one "neighbourhood"
of the town, located beside the river Baker. There
it is the municipal camping site and the beach
of Tortel, important scattering point for the
local population and visitors. 2) Lake "Quetru":
It is 45 miles from the southeast of Caleta Tortel,
overcoming the River Pascua. It is known by their
calm waters, sheltered of the winds and rich in
varieties of trout that generate excellent conditions
for fishing sport. It has hard riversides and
of difficult occupation, because the presence
of a leafy native forest Cypress of the Guaitecas
(pilgerodendrum uviferum) dead and I live, and
coigüe of Magellan (nothofagus betuloides).
3) Snowdrift Steffen: Called like that
in honour to the German geographer Hans Steffen
who in 1898 explored the big rivers of the Western
Patagonia, commanded by the Commission of State
limits. This Snowdrift is the central attractiveness
of the Program "Patrimonial Routes" of North ice
land. It is part of the P.N San Rafael lagoon.
4) Snowdrift Montt: Patagonia South descends
of the Field of Ice that is the biggest solid
of ice of the American south hemisphere, without
considering the Antarctica, with more than 14.000
Km2 of surface and 350 Km long, of which 8.325
Km2 are in the region of Aisén. Snowdrift Montt,
is part of the National Park Bernardo O'Higgins
and it was called this way in honour to who was
President of Chile between years 1891 and 1896,
Mr. Jorge Montt.
5) "Baker River": Of an intense green colour
all the year, product of the thaw cordilleran
thaw, it brings sedimentary material. From commune
of Tortel start, the river begins. It presents
big extensions of common Coigûe forest in its
riversides. By the highway in this tract is frequent
to sight huemules (hippocamelus bisulcus) beside
the road. Drain a surface of 26.487 Km 2, of which
17.159 Km2 is in national territory. It is the
second longer river of Chile after Loa, with a
journey 175 Km, until ending, near of Caleta Tortel.
Its half-dear flow is of 1.500 m3 by sec, being
the mightiest in the country. It has its origin
in Bertrand Lake, the one that receives the waters
of the Lake General Carrera Water body of 1.047,5
Km2, the most extensive in the country and the
second of Latin America.
6) "Bravo" river: The basin of the Bravo
river has a surface of 1.803 Km2 and a half flow
of 150m3/seg. Its more important tributaries are
the rivers "Desplayes", "Año Nuevo" and "El camino".
It is born in the glaciers located at south of
San Lorenzo hill, in the commune of Cochrane,
ending in the fiord Mitchell after a journey of
90 Km.
7) "Pascua" river: Drain a basin of 14.525
Km2 of which 7.155 Km2 are in national territory.
O'Higgins is born in the north of riverside of
the Lake, being the main drainage of this lake.
After a journey of 63 Km., Baker ends in the channel,
presenting a half flow of 400 m3/sec., being one
of the more torrents rivers of Patagonia. Between
its tributaries are "Mayer" and the "glaciers"
of the field of Ice South Patagonian.
8) "De los Muertos" island (to 100 years of
the strange events of the Baker): The island
"de los muertos" is located 6 km to the northwest
of Creek Tortel. It is known to keep one of the
big mysteries of the Chilean Patagonia, possessing
an old cemetery that dates from 1906, when none
certain quantity of "loggers" chilotes died for
causes that are ignored until today's day. In
those years, the operating company of the "Baker"
carried out a " Hook" of workers in Chiloé, coming
apparently of San Javier's sectors, Dalcahue,
Curaco of Vélez, and Achao among other, so that
they worked in the cleaning of the forest in the
outlet of the Baker for 6 months, with the purpose
to installing won ovine in the area. However,
the permanency of these men was prolonged for
more than 8 months, beyond the conventional period.
The first version is that they died by reason
of the famine increased by the appearance of the
scurvy. In most of the cases, this illness is
mentioned as an added difficulty of the abandonment
situation and lack of foods. The peculiar symptoms
of the scurvy are the inflammation and haemorrhage
of gums, and loss of teeth. The second hypothesis
is the one that suggests that the food they had
prepared, mainly flour, it would have been contaminated
accidentally with some toxic product; or the food
would have broken down, acquiring noxious properties
for the human health. The third version speaks
of an intentional massive murder by the owners
of the company of English capitals, those "Misters",
through the poisoning of the foods, probably with
arsenic, cyanide or strychnine, with the purpose
of robber the salary of the workers, of appeasing
an imminent mutiny on the part of them, or charging
fiscal compensation.
IV. - TERRESTRIAL TRIPS FROM CALETA TORTEL.
1) "Caleta Tortel" - "Yungay Port" - Port "Bravo
River". (For tourists that travel in vehicle)
Port Yungay is located in Mitchell fiord, in the
riverside of the peaceful ocean, 122 Kms., of
Cochrane. From Caleta Tortel it is possible to
get to Yungay port by rout Nº7 in an 1 hour. There
is not lodging; only a small business that supplies
of smaller products. It has a ramp for ferries.
At the present time 2 barges that allow connecting
in gratuitous form from Port Yungay to the south
with the ramp of Brave River in a trip of 40 m
approx.: the barge "Lake General Carrera" and
the new barge Father Antonio Ronchi, with a capacity
of 4trucks and 10-12 smaller vehicles respectively.
Consult for the timers of transfers in the tourist
information office. Duration: 2 hrs. To arrive
to "Bravo River".
2) Caleta Tortel - Bravo River - Quetru Lake.
(Agro tourism in Patagonia, with the settler families
of the area). From Port Bravo River it can go
to Lake Quetru and/or Villa O'Higgins. The tract
Bravo River - Villa O'Higgins is 102 Km., through
which sectors of native vegetation can be observed,
rivers, lakes and native fauna as the huemul.
From the landing in the ramp of Bravo River you
continue for the southern highway and in Km 5
there is a deviation toward the right. The layout
happens contiguous to the lakes "Black", "Loyal"
and "Quetru", 10, 19 and 22 Km from "Bravo River"
respectively. Although the route is built until
the Km 30, you can only arrive until the drainage
of the lake Quetru, because bridge doesn't still
exist and there the works are continued to arrive
to the snowdrift Montt, to 71 Km of Brave River.
This is the most southern tract in the Southern
Longitudinal road and it is sought to unite in
the future highway, with the road that is in construction
from "Natales Port". In the drainage of the Quetru
there is a settler family that offers the lodging
service with feeding. From this place it can descend
the "Pascua River" in approximately 1 h of voyage
in snub until arriving to their outlet. Duration:
2:40 h to arrive to the drainage of the Lake Quetru.
3) Caleta Tortel -Path "Cerro la Bandera" - Caleta
Tortel. "Walk for the gangplanks of Cypress and
Pathing to appreciate the delta of the Baker River."
Travel the countless gangplanks, stairways and
bridges of cypress of Caleta Tortel, to ascend
to the hill "The Flag", just behind the town,
through a tourist path of 2,5 Km that connects
the sectors of the "Rincón Alto" and the "Jonquil".
The path possesses 3 viewers, with privileged
panoramic views on the delta of Baker River and
its outlet in the southern channels. Duration:
4 h. V. - MARINE TRIPS - fluvial. Consult to the
e-mail tortelturismo@gmail.com or in tourist information
offices of the commune, about the readiness of
boats to carry out the following trips:
1) Caleta Tortel - "De los muertos" Island - Caleta
Tortel. "Know one of the most tragic and mysterious
episodes in the history that the Chilean Patagonia."
After about 40 minutes of sailing for one of the
arms of the Baker, it can visit the "De los Muertos
Island", of 39 hectares of surface, declared "Historical
Monument" May 25. 2001. For its great cultural
value, containing an old cemetery that dates from
1906. The crosses are 33, and only one of them
has name. Duration: 2 h and 30 m in Boat (going
and turn). 2 h in chata (Snub) (going and turn).
2) Caleta Tortel - Pisagua Cascade - "De los muertos"
Island - Caleta Tortel. "Sailing and Pathing for
the south limit of the P.N Lagoon San Rafael."
The Tourist Path "Cascade Mat Pisagua" it is next
to the National Park, Lagoon San Rafael, and to
the field of North Ice. The journey begins in
the fork of the tideland "Pisagua" with the river
Baker, ascending smoothly by an exuberant vegetation
until being in front of the monumental cascade
of more than 100 meters of height. From its base
it is possible to obtain a panoramic of the valley
and of the outlet of t Baker River; if you want
to arrive until that point it is necessary to
cross the river between the stones. After this,
the sailing itinerary continues toward the remains
of the boat "The Juanita" and the cemetery of
the "De los Muertos" Iceland that shows the historical
past of this area. Duration: 2 h and 30 m of sailing
in Boat and 3:20 h, of walking (going and turn).
1 h and 30 m of sailing in chata "Snub", and 3:20
h, of walking (going and turn).
3) Caleta Tortel - Snowdrift "Jorge Montt" - Caleta
Tortel. "Sailing toward the millennial ice, of
fields of South Ice, in the Bernardo O'Higgins,
National park." Marine route, ideal for people
interested in ecosystems, phenomena geomorphologic
or glaciologists. It begins from the pier that
is next to captaincy of Port, of CaletaTortel,
it stops then to cross to island "Morgan" and
island "Briceño", and later to go into the channel
"Square" among the tip "Carlos" and the tip "Carmela".
Once it crosses the "Plaza" channel, you arrive
to the famous channel "Baker", baptized formerly
as Fiord Calén, where you can appreciate the tideland
"Montenegro", the island "Francisco" and the island
"Faro", for finally to arrive to the snowdrift
"Jorge Montt", after 30 miles of sailing. A settler
family of the place offers lodging and foods,
and you can enjoy with more time and it calms
down of the millennial floes. Duration: The complete
day. 12 h of sailing in Boat (going and turn)
And 8 h of sailing in "chata" (snub) (going and
turn).
4) Caleta Tortel - Snowdrift "Steffen" - Caleta
Tortel. "Sailing and walking, toward the millennial
ice of the Field of Ice North, in the P.N Lagoon
San Rafael." The sailing begins from the pier
that is next to the captaincy of port of Chile
Army. In a few minutes it crosses the delta of
Baker River, being able to observe toward to the
south side the island "Morgan", the island "Teresa"
and the island "Vigía", and to the north side
the sector of "Punta Casas", a historical siege
where it was located the port formerly of "Bajo
Pisagua", first human occupation of this area
at the beginning of the XX century. After this
one enters to the tideland "Steffen", among half
of Tip "Lucía" and the tip "Steffen", it stops
then to arrive to the outlet of the river "Huemules"
river. This sailing tract is of 17 miles. After
being disembarked it begins the terrestrial journey
corresponding to the valley of the river Huemules
until their crossing, completing 3,5 Kms. After
the crossing in boat the "Huemules" river, begin
the tract corresponding to the western valley
of the river. They are 6,1 Kms from the crossing
in boat of the river huemules until the natural
viewer that grants a privileged view toward the
snowdrift Steffen. A settler family of the place
offers foods, and if it is coordinated in advance
with the tourist information offices of the commune,
they can be carried out cavalcades toward the
snowdrift Steffen, from the crossing of the river
Huemules. Another complementary alternative is
a trip to "Santa Ana" lagoon, a place practically
unexplored ideal for the sport fishing sport.
Duration: The complete day. 5 h of sailing in
Boat and 5 h of walking (going and turn) 3 h of
sailing in "chata" (snub) and 5 h of walking (going
and turn).
5) Caleta Tortel - Bravo river - CaletaTortel.
The trip begins from Caleta Tortel it stops then
to go into the channel "Montalva"; to the west
of the Island it is possible to see the "Neighbourhoods".
After this, among the tip "Quillota" and the tip
"Lindero" it enters to the tideland Mitchell,
where in the S/W is appreciated part of what is
the Peninsula "Videau." In the tideland Mitchell
you can appreciate Port Yungay for finally to
arrive to the outlet of the Bravo River. Duration:
The complete day. Boat: 9 hours sailing (going
and turn). Snub: 5 h of sailing (going and turn).
6) Caleta Tortel - Pascua River - Caleta Tortel.
"Agro tourism in Patagonia: A visit to settler
families of the Patagonian lands." Following the
same marine route to go to the snowdrift Montt,
you continue by the Baker channel, toward the
S/E, observing to the left the entrance of the
tideland "Steele", to arrive to the outlet of
the Pascua river. From here the river can go back
in "Snub" until arriving to District "Quetru",
in the drainage of homonymous lake. Beside the
Pascua river, very near its outlet, there inhabit
two settler families that offer the lodging service
with feeding, roasted country and ride horse.
Also from Pascua, the families offer the possibility
to visit the snowdrift Montt, in the field of
South ice, in some 2:30 h of voyage. It is recommended
to house in the place. Duration: 2 days. Boat:
13 h (going and turn). Snub: 8 h (going and turn)
OTHER SERVICES: Police Call centre Internet Camping
site, Municipal area Local craft Tourist information
office Rural medical Port captaincy Public library
Consultations in tortelturismo@gmail.com
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